Proteus Part Two

Over the past couple of evenings I have been laying down the base colours on the Land Raider Proteus. The more time I spend working on it, the more I am growing to like it’s rugged lines and appearance. I may look at adding these back into my Epic scale armies in due course as the Mk I has suddenly become vogue again as far as I am concerned.

I mentioned in my previous post that the Proteus required a bit of cleaning and preparation prior to assembly, including some filling and sanding work. Games Workshop recently updated their range of modelling tools with a few new additions, fleshing out their collection even further. I have already mentioned liquid green stuff, but what of the others and are they worthwhile?

In my opinion, yes and at the same time no. Hope that cleared things up. No? Oh alright then I’ll expand on that a bit then.
Dealing with the emery boards first of all. They do the job well enough, especially buffing the final finish. However I cannot in all conscience say they are any better that a piece of fine grit wet-and-dry sandpaper or a cheap emery board from a cosmetic store. In fact I find the sandpaper to be much more effective if I am honest and a great deal more cost effective. For one, once it gets clogged with resin or plastic dust (greenstuff even more so), you can just bin it and cut a fresh piece from the sheet. However, if you don’t have either of the above then sure, they work just fine.

The other new addition is the seam cleaner and brush set. Oh boy was I predisposed to dislike these, especially the price point for what essentially achieves no better result than the back of a craft blade or any cheap toothbrush. I have been using my craft blade to clean seam lines and scrape away excess flash quite successfully for years and don’t see GW’s new scraping tool as offering anything I don’t already have.

The thing is however, I was totally wrong. It actually does work and rather well at that, much to my surprise. I believe it is down to the scraper being rigid compared to a craft blade. Without the flex it does not jump or snag when removing excess flash, something the craft blade can do if you are not careful resulting in small ‘tears’ in the material which can be somewhat irritating. I am not necessarily advocating you immediately throw out your X-Acto, for one that would be silly and two you probably still need a knife if I am not mistaken. However don’t be hasty to write off the Citadel Scraper (as I am now dubbing it) as another over-priced gimmick.

As for the clean-up brush, well it’s hard to see it achieves any better results than a toothbrush to be honest, but if you don’t fancy using your current toothbrush for ‘also’ cleaning up a Cave Trolls nether-regions (and who would!), it’s not a bad alternative to have around as you can’t get the scraper without it anyway; the two being part of a set. Is it worth the £8 price tag? Your mileage may vary, but so far neither have been banished to the far corner of my toolbox if that helps any.

Getting back to the Proteus, with everything cleaned up and filled to my liking I have been getting the base colours and markings in place prior to sealing it in Klear to protect it from the weathering. The tracks have also been getting an initial dry-brush treatment, however I have not been too precious with the finish as I intend to cover most of their surface area with a dried mud effect later. Equally the Mordian Blue base coat is going to get chipped back and weathered so I wont be applying anything other than a minimal highlight at this stage.

As promised, here is the current state of the gun assemblies. A lot of care needs to be taken when gluing the lower power coupling and targeting array in place as these lock the Las-Cannons in position, but should still allow them to pivot freely. Applying the superglue using the end of a cocktail stick gives more control over where it goes and avoids any unpleasantness. You only require the smallest of amount as neither part needs to support any serious weight, just hold. That plus superglue on resin grabs faster than a baby’s hands in a toy store.

Finally the tracks went on last night and what a struggle that was. Despite several checks by dry-fitting and carefully cleaning them all up, there I no avoiding the fact that to get the links to line up properly takes a bit of persuasion. Being a continuous loop there are no armour sections to hide behind, so they need to join up and certainly when I put this one together they really didn’t want to. Luckily there is a solution; the hair dryer. Warming the tracks up softens them slightly and allows them to be flexed and moulded into position in relation to each other. It isn’t a course I recommend unless you are confident heating the parts to the point of deformation as it does require some care to ensure they don’t break or worse, melt!
On the positive side the slightly adjusted tracks do now sag more authentically around the road wheels which is good.

With the tracks in place I gave the hull a very basic light highlight and some pre-weathering in the corners, joins and around any exposed bolt heads. That is pretty much where things have progressed over the past couple of days and gets the Proteus to the point you see here.

The next stage will be to finish the main painting, in particular door icons, exhausts and engine louvres, do the initial chipping back and then apply a coat of Klear ready for the decals and weathering. All of that I will hopefully tackle over the weekend and move onto the fun part of painting the gun detailing.

Until then, have a great week.
Carl

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